Sanuuri
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Journal · European retirees

Bali vs Spain and Portugal: Where Should European Retirees Actually Go?

Aerial view of Sanur and the Sanuuri Residences area at dusk on Bali's east coast

Bali wins on monthly cost, year-round warmth and affordable daily help; Spain and Portugal win on proximity to family, EU healthcare rights and, for Britons, an unfrozen state pension. A comfortable couple needs roughly USD 2,350 to 3,450 a month in Sanur, typically less than the equivalent lifestyle on the Costa del Sol or Algarve.

Key takeaways

  • Golden visas are gone: Portugal cut the property route in October 2023 and Spain closed its scheme in April 2025. Income-based visas now do the work everywhere.
  • Bali's E33F Retirement KITAS asks for USD 3,000 a month in income; Spain's non-lucrative visa needs roughly EUR 2,400 a month and Portugal's D7 roughly the Portuguese minimum wage.
  • Sanur is warm every month of the year. Iberian coastal winters drop to 10 to 17°C with heating bills to match.
  • For UK retirees the state pension is uprated in the EU but frozen in Indonesia. Iberia genuinely wins this point.
  • Healthcare: EU systems are broader, but Sanur now has an international hospital eight minutes from Sanuuri, inside a USD 620 million health economic zone.

How do the visas compare now the golden visas are gone?

All three destinations now run on income-tested residence permits rather than property-purchase visas. Portugal removed real estate from its golden visa in October 2023, Spain terminated its golden visa in April 2025, and Indonesia's routes were never property-based to begin with.

For over-60s, Indonesia's E33F Retirement KITAS requires proof of USD 3,000 a month in pension or passive income, health insurance and accommodation, applied for via evisa.imigrasi.go.id and renewed annually, with KITAP permanent residence possible after three to four years. Those under 60, or anyone wanting a five or ten-year horizon in one go, use the E33 Second Home Visa with an IDR 2 billion (about USD 125,000) deposit at an Indonesian state-owned bank; the mechanics are set out in our complete E33 Second Home Visa guide.

Spain's non-lucrative visa requires passive income of roughly EUR 2,400 a month for the main applicant (it is pegged to 400% of the IPREM index, so check current figures), no work allowed, renewable towards long-term residence. Portugal's D7 is friendlier on paper, income of roughly the Portuguese minimum wage, but processing backlogs at AIMA, Portugal's migration agency, have stretched timelines badly in recent years. None of the three is difficult for a genuinely funded retiree; the difference is that Indonesia's permits are transactional and quick through licensed agents, while Iberian consular queues move at their own pace.

Which is cheaper: Bali, Spain or Portugal?

Bali, for most lifestyles. A retired couple lives comfortably in Sanur on roughly USD 2,350 to 3,450 a month, per bali.com's 2026 cost guides, with premium living at USD 4,000 to 6,000. Comparable coastal comfort in Marbella, Alicante or the central Algarve tends to run higher once housing and winter utilities are counted.

The structural difference is labour. A cleaner, gardener, massage at home or a driver for the evening are everyday purchases in Bali and luxury purchases in Western Europe. Dining out follows the same pattern: a good restaurant meal for two in Sanur costs what two coffees and a pastry cost in Cascais. Where Iberia claws back ground is health insurance, cars and imported goods, and where it clearly wins is flights home. The full line-item budget is in our cost of living in Sanur for a retired couple.

Retirement comparison: Sanur (Bali) vs Costa del Sol (Spain) vs Algarve (Portugal), 2026
FactorSanur, BaliCosta del SolAlgarve
Main retiree visaE33F Retirement KITAS (60+) or E33 Second Home VisaNon-lucrative visaD7 passive-income visa
Income or capital testUSD 3,000/month, or IDR 2 billion deposit (E33)~EUR 2,400/month (400% IPREM)~Portuguese minimum wage/month
Comfortable couple budgetUSD 2,350 to 3,450/monthEUR 2,800 to 4,000/monthEUR 2,500 to 3,600/month
January daytime temperature28 to 31°C12 to 17°C10 to 16°C
Healthcare modelPrivate insurance, international hospitalsPublic system access plus privatePublic system access plus private
Flight from London17 to 20 hours, one stop2.5 to 3 hours direct2.5 to 3 hours direct
UK state pensionFrozenUprated annuallyUprated annually
Foreign property ownershipLeasehold standard (no freehold)FreeholdFreehold

What about climate?

Bali is warm all year, 27 to 31°C by day in every month, split into a dry season (roughly April to October) and a wet season with heavy afternoon downpours. Southern Spain and Portugal give you a real winter: mild by northern European standards, but cool, damp and short-dayed from November to February.

Which you prefer is personal. Retirees who moved to Iberia for the sun are often surprised to spend January in a jumper next to an inadequate heater; tiled Mediterranean houses are built for summer. Sanur's compensation runs the other way: you trade four seasons for two, and the wet season is warm rain rather than cold grey. Sanur also sits on the drier east coast, where mornings during the wet season are frequently clear, which is when the town walks and cycles its 7 km car-free promenade.

Which wins on healthcare?

Iberia, on breadth. Residents in Spain and Portugal can access well-regarded public systems, and UK state pensioners can use the S1 scheme to have the UK fund their state healthcare there. Bali is private-only for foreigners, so insurance is compulsory in practice, but the top end has improved fast.

The Bali International Hospital opened in Sanur on 25 June 2025 and anchors KEK Sanur, Indonesia's first health special economic zone, 41.26 hectares with around USD 620 million in projected investment under Government Regulation 41 of 2022. BIMC and the JCI-accredited Siloam Hospital Bali cover the south of the island, and Singapore is under three hours away. For routine care, private appointments in Bali are fast and inexpensive; for complex chronic conditions, Europe's systems remain deeper. That is the honest trade.

So who should pick which?

Pick Iberia if being within a three-hour flight of children and grandchildren is non-negotiable, if you rely on public healthcare, or if a frozen UK state pension would materially hurt you. Pick Bali if budget, warmth, service and a more adventurous chapter matter more than proximity.

Language and integration deserve a sentence of honesty in each direction. In Spain and Portugal you will eventually need functional Spanish or Portuguese to deal with clinics, town halls and tradespeople outside the expat bubble. In Sanur, English is the working language of daily expat life, and learning Bahasa Indonesia is a courtesy rather than a survival requirement, which lowers the friction of the first year considerably.

The numbers behind Bali's pull are not subtle: 6.9 million foreign arrivals in 2025, up 9.7% on 2024, according to BPS Bali, and a growing share of them are over-60s doing exactly this arithmetic. British readers weighing the move should start with our UK-specific guide to retiring in Bali, which covers the pension freeze, flight logistics and where to live. Many couples split the difference: a Sanur base for most of the year, rented out through a managed complex such as Sanuuri Residences while they summer in Europe, which is a model Iberian holiday lets rarely match on net returns; agents advertise 7 to 10% gross yields for well-located Sanur villas, though gross figures deserve caution and net modelling.

This article is general information, not legal, tax or financial advice. Rules change and individual circumstances differ. Confirm current requirements with a licensed agent or adviser before acting.

Frequently asked questions

Is Bali cheaper than Spain or Portugal for retirees?

Usually, yes. A retired couple lives comfortably in Sanur on roughly USD 2,350 to 3,450 a month per bali.com's 2026 guides, and day-to-day items such as dining, home help and transport cost noticeably less than in coastal Spain or Portugal. Health insurance is the exception: it costs more in Bali because you cannot rely on a public system.

Did Spain and Portugal really end their golden visas?

Yes in substance. Portugal removed the real-estate route from its golden visa in October 2023, and Spain wound up its golden visa scheme in April 2025. Retirees now use Portugal's D7 passive-income visa or Spain's non-lucrative visa, both of which require proof of income and full private health insurance initially.

Is the UK state pension frozen in Bali but not in Spain or Portugal?

Correct. British state pensions paid in EU countries continue to receive annual increases, while Indonesia has no reciprocal agreement with the UK, so the pension is frozen at the rate first paid there. That is a genuine advantage for Iberia, and British readers should weigh it honestly against Bali's lower running costs.

Who should choose Bali over Spain or Portugal?

Choose Bali if you want year-round warmth, a lower monthly budget, affordable daily help and a genuinely different life, and you are comfortable being a long-haul flight from family. Choose Iberia if you need to be within three hours of grandchildren, want EU-backed healthcare or plan to drive home each summer.

Sources

  1. bali.com, Cost of Living in Bali guides, 2026
  2. BPS Bali (Badan Pusat Statistik), foreign arrivals 2024 and 2025
  3. Government Regulation 41 of 2022, KEK Sanur health special economic zone
  4. Directorate General of Immigration, evisa.imigrasi.go.id, E33F and E33 visa requirements, 2026
  5. GOV.UK, State Pension if you retire abroad
  6. Spanish immigration rules (non-lucrative visa, IPREM-linked income) and Portugal's AIMA, D7 visa guidance, 2026
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Oliver Heliste is the founder of Investland Bali, the developer behind Sanuuri Residences in Sanur. His team handles legal structuring, construction and rental management for international owners.

Thinking about Sanur?

If Bali wins your comparison, see what a fully furnished home two minutes from the promenade actually looks like before you fly.